Date: Thursday 19th July 2007
Mileage: 17 miles
Weather: Very sunny and warm until 1:30 and then it rained all afternoon and evening
We had an early start this morning and we were on the road at twenty past eight and prepared to begin the highest climb of the trip. It was straight up the hillside to Angle Tarn - a stiff climb but the legs are not complaining so much now. There were quite a few others on the trail today - D counted 20. The views got better the higher we climbed. Once we were at the summit of Kidsty Pike it was amazing - all the fells looked glorious in the sunshine. Looking east to the horizon we could see the distant blue shapes of the Northern Pennines - the next high ground we had to cross. Looking west, the fells beckoned, calling us back - High Street, in particular was tempting us to make a detour. As Wainwright said, "Kidsty Pike...is the best station for taking a last long look at the serrated mountain skyline of Lakeland, the like of which will not be seen again this side of the North Sea. But there will be other years, other visits...The hills will wait." (A Coast to Coast Walk, A. Wainwright, 1973).
Reluctantly we turned our backs on the fells and headed down towards Haweswater - hoping for a glimpse of the famous golden eagle. As usual, the descent was very steep and tough on the knees. Once again I was glad I had my stick. We stopped for lunch on a hillock overlooking Haweswater and enjoyed the sunshine whilst we munched our packed lunch from the B&B. Then, as we set off to walk the four mile length of the reservoir, it started to rain and it didn't stop for the next 12 miles. After our experiences walking along the banks of Ennerdale I was ready for an equally difficult path along Haweswater. With the rain as well, it turned into an endurance test. Up, down, rocky, slippy, boggy, boring, narrow - all those kind of words describe the route. At last we reached the end and the 'bright lights' of Burn Banks. This was a settlement created by Manchester City Council to house the workers who toiled on building the reservoir so Manchester citizens could enjoy clean, plentiful supplies of water. The area has been spruced up recently and the houses rebuilt for anyone who can afford to buy them. A very quiet, strange little place in the shadow of the dam. Definitely needs a tea room......
After an brief lull the rain started again and poured down until we reached Shap Abbey. This part of the walk, alongside a river, would have been very enjoyable in the sunshine but we were too wet and tired to appreciate our surroundings. We arrived in Shap....in glorious sunshine! What's this? Later the rain returned just as we had finished our delicious meal at the Greyhound Pub in Shap and were walking back to the B&B - soaked again by the time we got there.
Reluctantly we turned our backs on the fells and headed down towards Haweswater - hoping for a glimpse of the famous golden eagle. As usual, the descent was very steep and tough on the knees. Once again I was glad I had my stick. We stopped for lunch on a hillock overlooking Haweswater and enjoyed the sunshine whilst we munched our packed lunch from the B&B. Then, as we set off to walk the four mile length of the reservoir, it started to rain and it didn't stop for the next 12 miles. After our experiences walking along the banks of Ennerdale I was ready for an equally difficult path along Haweswater. With the rain as well, it turned into an endurance test. Up, down, rocky, slippy, boggy, boring, narrow - all those kind of words describe the route. At last we reached the end and the 'bright lights' of Burn Banks. This was a settlement created by Manchester City Council to house the workers who toiled on building the reservoir so Manchester citizens could enjoy clean, plentiful supplies of water. The area has been spruced up recently and the houses rebuilt for anyone who can afford to buy them. A very quiet, strange little place in the shadow of the dam. Definitely needs a tea room......
After an brief lull the rain started again and poured down until we reached Shap Abbey. This part of the walk, alongside a river, would have been very enjoyable in the sunshine but we were too wet and tired to appreciate our surroundings. We arrived in Shap....in glorious sunshine! What's this? Later the rain returned just as we had finished our delicious meal at the Greyhound Pub in Shap and were walking back to the B&B - soaked again by the time we got there.