Date: Thursday 26th July 2007
Mileage: 13 1/2 miles
Weather: Low cloud, windy. Rain later
We were on the road by 9.45 and we covered the route today very quickly. We had lunch at the Arncliffe Arms in Glaisdale - scrummy food. We met up with the Leicester Duo and the chap was suffering with a sore, sun burnt leg which looked very painful. I suggested that he might need someone to look at it and just as I said this two other Coast to Coasters walked in who just happened to be doctors (we'd seen them the previous evening in the Lion Inn). They had a look and in their professional opinion he wouldn't need to amputate his leg.....just yet. Today we also met up with the three boys from Liverpool who are camping along the whole route AND carrying all their kit - no baggage carriers for them - heroes. And we saw a lady who's walking alone who we hadn't seen since day three and she's still marching on. Everyone seems to have concertinaed together for these last few days - we have a bubble of coast to coasters.
We left the B&B this morning in thick cloud - again. So no views for us for the first couple of hours of walking over the moors. It was very quiet and eerie. This part of the route was punctuated by strange ancient boundary stones and markers - Fat Betty, Ralph Cross - it all added up to an atmospheric journey - very Sherlock Holmes and the Hounds of the Baskervilles. We also walked along Great Fry Up Lane - a reminder of all the bacon, sausage, black pudding, etc, etc we have eaten on this trip .I don't think I ever want to eat another 'Full English'.
The clouds gradually lifted and we walked along the banks of the River Esk which was picturesque but very muddy. We arrived in Egton Bridge at three o'clock and stayed at the Postgate Inn. Exceptional food, disappointing room and very expensive. Stedman waxed lyrical about the delights of Egton Bridge so that is why I chose to stay there. Next time I would walk the extra mile and half and stay in Grosmont...near the steam trains.