Date: Monday 16th July 2007
Mileage: 16 Miles
Weather: Overcast and windy, then light rain, then glorious July sunshine from 4 o'clock onwards.
It was a tough day today - I was very glad the weather wasn't good enough to do the high route alternative over Haystacks et al. The low level route was quite high enough me. It was a one and half mile trek back down from the B&B (worst breakfast of the trip) to the trail which was all downhill. The walk alongside Ennerdale sounded easy in the guide book but was actually quite hard. I was imagining there would be a footpath suitable for baby buggies, however it was more like an obstacle course for novice mountain goats. The paths were rocky with busy streams running down them and there was a light scrambling section at Robin Hood's Chair plus high, narrow paths next to sheer drops down to the lake below. I was glad I had my stick and I tried not to look down too much. We kept meeting up with Yurik and Ineke and the American Duo. The view was marvellous. Ennerdale was looking gorgeous and the fells were mantled with clouds - all broody, dangerous and dark but attractive in a Heathcliffe sort of way.
The next section was a long, relentless trudge through Ennerdale valley surrounded by conifers. At this stage of the day the sun had come out and it was very hot in the woods walking along the forest road. I kept a lookout for red squirrels but didn't spot any of the elusive little critters. Probably hiding behind the trees and sniggering into their bushy tails. The walk was worth it as at the end of this section was the famous Black Sail Hut Youth hostel - huzzah! With shelter, seats, tables, tea and cake - huzzah! It was a tiny place with wooden benches and tables, a wood-burning stove, beams and an honesty box for tea and home made cakes - super. We met up with our international friends again and D asked them if they wanted to walk the next stage with us up Loft Beck and over to Honister. So D led the party up into the hills and up Loft Beck - this is when I realised I'd not had enough breakfast - I straggled behind and struggled up the stream. The path was steep and rocky and I had no energy in my legs. It was 534 metres straight up. The view at the top was worth the slog. The skies cleared and we could see Buttermere and Crummock Water and all the fells - bliss. We crossed the mythical Brandwith Fence and descended to Honister Slate Mines and visitor centre. David did a great job with the navigating as this is one of the routes where Coast to Coasters tend to get lost.
D and I then had a gentle walk to Rosthwaite via Seatoller in lovely sunshine by the River Derwent. The B&B at Nook Farm is a lovely old farmhouse- friendly welcome, huge bed. We had dinner at the Scafell Hotel - not the best pub on the route - it has all the trappings and the lack of charm associated with pubs that are part of a chain. But we did meet up with Yurik and Ineke again which was great. This is probably the last day we will see them as they have three leisurely weeks to complete the trek - tomorrow is a rest day and they will probably sample the delights of Keswick. I recommended that they visit Brysons the Bakers and try a Lakeland Tea including Plum Bread - now that is the food of the gods.
The next section was a long, relentless trudge through Ennerdale valley surrounded by conifers. At this stage of the day the sun had come out and it was very hot in the woods walking along the forest road. I kept a lookout for red squirrels but didn't spot any of the elusive little critters. Probably hiding behind the trees and sniggering into their bushy tails. The walk was worth it as at the end of this section was the famous Black Sail Hut Youth hostel - huzzah! With shelter, seats, tables, tea and cake - huzzah! It was a tiny place with wooden benches and tables, a wood-burning stove, beams and an honesty box for tea and home made cakes - super. We met up with our international friends again and D asked them if they wanted to walk the next stage with us up Loft Beck and over to Honister. So D led the party up into the hills and up Loft Beck - this is when I realised I'd not had enough breakfast - I straggled behind and struggled up the stream. The path was steep and rocky and I had no energy in my legs. It was 534 metres straight up. The view at the top was worth the slog. The skies cleared and we could see Buttermere and Crummock Water and all the fells - bliss. We crossed the mythical Brandwith Fence and descended to Honister Slate Mines and visitor centre. David did a great job with the navigating as this is one of the routes where Coast to Coasters tend to get lost.
D and I then had a gentle walk to Rosthwaite via Seatoller in lovely sunshine by the River Derwent. The B&B at Nook Farm is a lovely old farmhouse- friendly welcome, huge bed. We had dinner at the Scafell Hotel - not the best pub on the route - it has all the trappings and the lack of charm associated with pubs that are part of a chain. But we did meet up with Yurik and Ineke again which was great. This is probably the last day we will see them as they have three leisurely weeks to complete the trek - tomorrow is a rest day and they will probably sample the delights of Keswick. I recommended that they visit Brysons the Bakers and try a Lakeland Tea including Plum Bread - now that is the food of the gods.