Day Six: Patterdale to Shap

Date: Thursday 19th July 2007
Mileage: 17 miles
Weather: Very sunny and warm until 1:30 and then it rained all afternoon and evening

We had an early start this morning and we were on the road at twenty past eight and prepared to begin the highest climb of the trip. It was straight up the hillside to Angle Tarn - a stiff climb but the legs are not complaining so much now. There were quite a few others on the trail today - D counted 20. The views got better the higher we climbed. Once we were at the summit of Kidsty Pike it was amazing - all the fells looked glorious in the sunshine. Looking east to the horizon we could see the distant blue shapes of the Northern Pennines - the next high ground we had to cross. Looking west, the fells beckoned, calling us back - High Street, in particular was tempting us to make a detour. As Wainwright said, "Kidsty Pike...is the best station for taking a last long look at the serrated mountain skyline of Lakeland, the like of which will not be seen again this side of the North Sea. But there will be other years, other visits...The hills will wait." (A Coast to Coast Walk, A. Wainwright, 1973).

Reluctantly we turned our backs on the fells and headed down towards Haweswater - hoping for a glimpse of the famous golden eagle. As usual, the descent was very steep and tough on the knees. Once again I was glad I had my stick. We stopped for lunch on a hillock overlooking Haweswater and enjoyed the sunshine whilst we munched our packed lunch from the B&B. Then, as we set off to walk the four mile length of the reservoir, it started to rain and it didn't stop for the next 12 miles. After our experiences walking along the banks of Ennerdale I was ready for an equally difficult path along Haweswater. With the rain as well, it turned into an endurance test. Up, down, rocky, slippy, boggy, boring, narrow - all those kind of words describe the route. At last we reached the end and the 'bright lights' of Burn Banks. This was a settlement created by Manchester City Council to house the workers who toiled on building the reservoir so Manchester citizens could enjoy clean, plentiful supplies of water. The area has been spruced up recently and the houses rebuilt for anyone who can afford to buy them. A very quiet, strange little place in the shadow of the dam. Definitely needs a tea room......

After an brief lull the rain started again and poured down until we reached Shap Abbey. This part of the walk, alongside a river, would have been very enjoyable in the sunshine but we were too wet and tired to appreciate our surroundings. We arrived in Shap....in glorious sunshine! What's this? Later the rain returned just as we had finished our delicious meal at the Greyhound Pub in Shap and were walking back to the B&B - soaked again by the time we got there.

Day Five: Grasmere to Patterdale

Date: Wednesday 18th July 2007
Mileage: 10 miles
Weather: Very brief sunshine in the morning, then rain for three hours, then gloriously sunny in the late afternoon and evening.

We had a hard climb out of Grasmere up to Grisedale Tarn. It was very warm and humid in the valley but there were marvellous views back down towards Grasmere. Just as we reached the top the clouds rolled in and the mist surrounded us (very Tom Bombadill and the Barrowdowns). We made a command decision not to climb St Sunday's Crag as it was covered in cloud and more weather seemed to be moving in. We descended to Patterdale via the low level route next to Grisedale Beck. It was a long slow job (for me) picking my way down the steep, slippery, rocky path. After 5 minutes the heavens opened and it chucked it down for a couple of hours. We had to wear our waterproof trousers! I remembered saying before the trip, "Oh we won't need those - it'll be July and it never rains on my walking holidays...." Hmmmm. We ate our lunch under a tree which was nice but a little damp. The rain stopped as we strolled into the village of Patterdale. As it was early we went to the White Lion and had tea and soup. We wandered up to Noran Bank Farm (1/2 mile from the village past a very tatty looking YHA - glad we weren't staying there) and sat in the garden waiting for the owners to arrive. We sat there surrounded by our rucksacks, discarded boots and socks, baa-ing sheep and the most fantastic view of the fells and the route we would be taking tomorrow. The B&B was a very interesting place - built in 1617 and still a working farm run by real Cumbrians. The old dad, who had died a couple of years ago, was head of the local hunt. the dining room was full of memorabilia about his life and it looks like he was a real lakeland character. We had a wood- panelled bedroom and the floors were all uneven - great. The water came from a spring behind the house - it was like nectar.

Day Four: Rosthwaite to Grasmere

Date: Tuesday 17th July 2007
Mileage: 11 miles
Weather: Showers then sunshine and warmth

I thought today might be any easier day what with the low mileage, etc. Well, it wasn't and I felt quite stretched by the end of it - physically and mentally. It started with a steady climb up Borrowdale towards Lining Crag. On the way, at Stonethwaite, a farmer and his assistants were herding cows (3 cows, 1 bull and two calves) on their quad bikes (you never see a farmer walking). The farmer was calling out "Cush, cush" which echoed round the dale and the cows were mooing back - very atmospheric. It was all very pastoral and rustic until we realised that he was herding the cattle down the walled track we were walking along. I was ready to climb over a fence but the farmer passed by leading the cows and said, "No need - just stand by the wall." So we did. The cows obediently trundled past followed by the farmers two assistants on a second quad. They stopped by us for a chat.....which was lovely. You don't get that if you're hurtling by in a car.

Back to Lining Crag. Well, Stedman (he's the author of our guide book) did mention there were some obstacles to achieving the summit including a rock wall - so today I did scrambling. I scrambled up a slippy, steep rock face (well - it was steep to me who wobbles on the second rung of a step ladder). The heart was racing, the heavy pack forgotten and the tired legs were ignored as I clung on and concentrated on not looking down and reaching the top - which I did! I also did major, gushing stream crossing and peat bog-hopping. So lots of challenges faced and achieved today. D did a great job with navigation when we reached the top as this was another tricky spot to negotiate and find the correct path. The weather had cleared by the time we reached the summit so we decided to do the high level ridge walk to Grasmere. Stunning views but quite tough walking as very rocky, boggy and up and down. The final descent was very steep - glad I had my stick (again). We started at 10 o'clock and did not arrive at the B&B until quarter past five so a very long day for 11 miles.

Day Three: Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

Date: Monday 16th July 2007
Mileage: 16 Miles
Weather: Overcast and windy, then light rain, then glorious July sunshine from 4 o'clock onwards.

It was a tough day today - I was very glad the weather wasn't good enough to do the high route alternative over Haystacks et al. The low level route was quite high enough me. It was a one and half mile trek back down from the B&B (worst breakfast of the trip) to the trail which was all downhill. The walk alongside Ennerdale sounded easy in the guide book but was actually quite hard. I was imagining there would be a footpath suitable for baby buggies, however it was more like an obstacle course for novice mountain goats. The paths were rocky with busy streams running down them and there was a light scrambling section at Robin Hood's Chair plus high, narrow paths next to sheer drops down to the lake below. I was glad I had my stick and I tried not to look down too much. We kept meeting up with Yurik and Ineke and the American Duo. The view was marvellous. Ennerdale was looking gorgeous and the fells were mantled with clouds - all broody, dangerous and dark but attractive in a Heathcliffe sort of way.

The next section was a long, relentless trudge through Ennerdale valley surrounded by conifers. At this stage of the day the sun had come out and it was very hot in the woods walking along the forest road. I kept a lookout for red squirrels but didn't spot any of the elusive little critters. Probably hiding behind the trees and sniggering into their bushy tails. The walk was worth it as at the end of this section was the famous Black Sail Hut Youth hostel - huzzah! With shelter, seats, tables, tea and cake - huzzah! It was a tiny place with wooden benches and tables, a wood-burning stove, beams and an honesty box for tea and home made cakes - super. We met up with our international friends again and D asked them if they wanted to walk the next stage with us up Loft Beck and over to Honister. So D led the party up into the hills and up Loft Beck - this is when I realised I'd not had enough breakfast - I straggled behind and struggled up the stream. The path was steep and rocky and I had no energy in my legs. It was 534 metres straight up. The view at the top was worth the slog. The skies cleared and we could see Buttermere and Crummock Water and all the fells - bliss. We crossed the mythical Brandwith Fence and descended to Honister Slate Mines and visitor centre. David did a great job with the navigating as this is one of the routes where Coast to Coasters tend to get lost.

D and I then had a gentle walk to Rosthwaite via Seatoller in lovely sunshine by the River Derwent. The B&B at Nook Farm is a lovely old farmhouse- friendly welcome, huge bed. We had dinner at the Scafell Hotel - not the best pub on the route - it has all the trappings and the lack of charm associated with pubs that are part of a chain. But we did meet up with Yurik and Ineke again which was great. This is probably the last day we will see them as they have three leisurely weeks to complete the trek - tomorrow is a rest day and they will probably sample the delights of Keswick. I recommended that they visit Brysons the Bakers and try a Lakeland Tea including Plum Bread - now that is the food of the gods.

Day Two: St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

Date: Sunday 15th July 2007
Mileage: 16 Miles
Weather: Sunny then showers then a downpour...

Fantastic weather until lunch time - blue skies, wheeling sea-birds, azure sea and dramatic sandstone cliffs. Thoroughly enjoyed the cliff top walk. There were lots of wild flowers including heathers and harebells. Once we turned inland we saw a barn owl...sat on a post....fantastic! Also saw a dead shrew and a dead mole. I managed to get stuck in a kissing gate and I was helped out by a Canadian father and son combo as D was obliviously striding manfully into the distance. They helped me through two gates as my pack was too big and had to be taken off and lifted over.

Lunch was purchased in Cleator - a village on the edge of things. We passed a pub, The Three Tuns, which had a sign outside encouraging walkers to come in "We don't mind muddy boots!" said the desperate hand- written sign placed in the window. The local shop did sell everything as promised by the guide book. The girl working there did not seem too willing to sell anything though. I persuaded her to part with two sandwiches and other edible dainties for our lunch stop which we had sat under a hedge as a shower passed over.

I was glad we tackled Dent Hill after lunch. This was our first climb of the trek and it was bit of a slog straight up through a conifer plantation on a muddy, slippery path. I had plenty of stops to admire the view and give my pounding heart time to slow down a bit - oh it was hot and strenuous but the view was worth it. At the summit we looked back and we could see the sea and all the distance we had covered so far that day. We looked forward and there were the fells - magnificent and brooding with a topping of rain clouds. At the cairn D met a dutch couple and the man was running round and round the cairn (What's this? More later). We rounded Helm's Crag and then we lost the path. The guide book was no help - too vague. We realised immediately we had gone wrong and then we met up with the Dutch couple again who had also lost the route with a different guide book. We pooled resources and stepped out confidently along Nannycatch Beck only to completely lose the trail but we did get talking and exchanged names (Yurik and Ineke from Holland doing the C2C in three weeks. Yurik was being chased by a hornet - that was why he was running round the cairn - not from the excitement of it all). Eventually came out at a road, pinpointed where we were on the map and walked down the road (two miles, in the pouring rain) to Ennerdale Bridge.

Once in the village we decided to go into the Fox and Hounds for a drink. In the pub we found the Canadian duo. Two rounds later and we were all having a great time - rain forgotten, vague guide books dismissed and international relations running very smoothly. We all decided to order food and roast beef dinner was the unanimous choice. The pub was great - the staff very friendly and organised. I persuaded the Canadian dad to try sticky toffee pudding and he loved it. The American duo from our B&B arrived to join the party - they were knackered after a day carrying very heavy packs. Josh rang the baggage carriers and they will carry his pack for the rest of the trip. Yurik and Ineke are doing likewise. They all seemed to think this walk was going to be a stroll in the park - oh no I don't think so. Dent Hill is just the first teeny tiny hill of many bigger, steeper, more ardous fells to come. The truth, I think, has slowly dawned on them all......and on me.

Day One: Home to St. Bees

Date: Saturday, 14th July 2007
Mileage: 150 miles (or thereabouts)
Weather: Cloudy with sunny spells

Today the trains were running on time, indeed dear reader, they were early. We found our seats with no bother and did not have to climb over bodies to get to them - so top marks to Virgin Trains. We arrived in St. Bees at 5.50pm and it was a good ten minute walk to the B&B (Tomlin House). Of course our £12 bag soon gave up the ghost as one of the wheels buckled causing D to huff and puff as the bag is very heavy. Our room is OK - if I lean out of the window I can just about see the Irish Sea.

We had dinner at the Queen Hotel which was very quiet considering so many people were in there - I think they were just busy eating with no time for talking. The few staff were at sixes and sevens - D had to repeat our drinks order three times before we had a breakthrough.

We had a walk down to the beach after dinner taking in the beautiful ornamental flower garden outside the public loos which consisted of a row of old toilets filled with compost and planted with sweet peas (someone's got a sense of humour) on one side of the road and a modern statue of St Bega on the other - from the ridiculous to the.....cultured!

St Bees is one of my favourite places in Cumbria. It is shunned by tourists because of its location (Sellafield round one headland and a chemical works round the other). Yet it has a lovely sandy beach, dramatic cliffs, seabirds galore and interesting buildings. Just don't go for a paddle......